Elna Supermatic Sewing Machine Wiring Diagram

Due to the amount of studies I have had recently, I had about a week were I did not work. When I went back in on a Saturday morning there were three machines awaiting me. One was a modern Brother overlocker, with no pedal (I'm yet to decide what I'm going to do with it), one was a Singer 5528, the second of them I've had in as many months and I keep meaning to devote a post to them and the third was in a very square metal case. There was only one machine I knew for sure came in a metal case (Elna model 1) and this was the wrong colour, so I was extremely excited when I took the machine out. It was a gorgeous Elna Supermatic, complete with ~11 cams plus the buttonhole attachment, a few feet and the cover plates for the feed dogs. Half of the case forms the flat bed for the machine and the machine is a knee control (I love knee controls!). This machine is made in Switzerland and has all metal gears and parts, that I can see, the body is aluminium and consequently the machine is not all that heavy.

If your sewing machine, accessory, or ephemera has a name on it, this is the place to start. If we don't have a listing for the name, please use the search function to see if there is any mention of it on our site. Sustainable sewing by elna. With an elna sewing machine, you chose our brand’s high quality standards and excellent after-sale service. With quality and endurance translating into product durability, your sewing machines’ extended lifetime means that you don’t need to replace it with a new one in a short time. There was only one machine I knew for sure came in a metal case (Elna model 1) and this was the wrong colour, so I was extremely excited when I took the machine out. It was a gorgeous Elna Supermatic, complete with 11 cams plus the buttonhole attachment, a few feet and the cover plates for the feed dogs. Schematic Diagram. ELNA Supermatic; ELNA SP 31. Sewing Machine Iron Sewing Machine Accessories Card Reader Media Converter.

It wasn't until a week later I found time to take it home and look at it, there is no way I am selling this machine, I am BUYING it!
Firstly I removed the cover from the free arm and the throat-plate just sprung off, the bobbin loads from the back, I then removed the feed dogs so that I could get the bobbin holder and the hook apart, for ease of cleaning. The surfaces here have been de-rusted at some period in time as the chrome is less than shiny in parts.

To get the bobbin holder free from the hook there are two little screws (with little springs coiled around them) that need to be removed, they are directly opposite each other and the holes can be seen in the photograph below. Just be aware they are very springy and are very easy to lose if they spring away somewhere.
The next thing I did was remove the base of the machine (remove screws circled in red in image below) so I could see up the pillar, it is incredible. The motor and all the necessary electrical parts to control the speed of the machine through the knee control are mounted in there. The motor is geared into the machine much higher up the arm and cannot be seen in the following photographs.

Finally I checked and oiled all the moving parts under the faceplate and cam door. The faceplate cannot be opened unless the foot is down. The machine is threaded by passing the thread down the back of the faceplate, through the tension, from back to front, and then through the take-up lever and then as usual.

Whilst I was oiling this machine I noticed it had a hard spot, I thought maybe something wasn't oiled properly but despite oiling all the usual spots the noise persisted. When I actually plugged the machine in and ran it the noise increased with the speed (as was to be expected) and the machine clunked dreadfully. It wasn't until a couple of days later I found enough time to go and look at it again.
It came to my attention that the noise was not always in the same place in the machines rotation, this implied the motor was at fault. Eventually I disengaged the machine from the motor as for bobbin winding and the clunking continued, definitely the motor. With the base removed it became obvious that every time the machine clunked the entire motor was moving, which it definitely was not supposed to do. The problem was, how to see up the arm to see the gears? I did not have the appropriate circlip pliers to remove the handwheel and try and see in that way but eventually remember we had a camera for seeing in confined spaces. This worked and I can now say that to all intents and purposes it looks as if the gears up there are chipped and resulting in the machine not running smoothly. When I am finally finished for the year (another 4 weeks) I intend to go through the painstaking process of removing the motor and actually being able to personally see the extent of the damage. It is annoying to have such a beautiful machine, complete with accessories and be completely unable to use it!! At least I only have to pay $10 for it as it is completely unsaleable.....!Due to the amount of studies I have had recently, I had about a week were I did not work. When I went back in on a Saturday morning there were three machines awaiting me. One was a modern Brother overlocker, with no pedal (I'm yet to decide what I'm going to do with it), one was a Singer 5528, the second of them I've had in as many months and I keep meaning to devote a post to them and the third was in a very square metal case. There was only one machine I knew for sure came in a metal case (Elna model 1) and this was the wrong colour, so I was extremely excited when I took the machine out. It was a gorgeous Elna Supermatic, complete with ~11 cams plus the buttonhole attachment, a few feet and the cover plates for the feed dogs. Half of the case forms the flat bed for the machine and the machine is a knee control (I love knee controls!). This machine is made in Switzerland and has all metal gears and parts, that I can see, the body is aluminium and consequently the machine is not all that heavy.Elna Supermatic Sewing Machine Wiring Diagram
It wasn't until a week later I found time to take it home and look at it, there is no way I am selling this machine, I am BUYING it!
Firstly I removed the cover from the free arm and the throat-plate just sprung off, the bobbin loads from the back, I then removed the feed dogs so that I could get the bobbin holder and the hook apart, for ease of cleaning. The surfaces here have been de-rusted at some period in time as the chrome is less than shiny in parts.

To get the bobbin holder free from the hook there are two little screws (with little springs coiled around them) that need to be removed, they are directly opposite each other and the holes can be seen in the photograph below. Just be aware they are very springy and are very easy to lose if they spring away somewhere.

Elna Supermatic Sewing Machine Manual


Elna Supermatic Sewing Machine Wiring Diagram Motor

The next thing I did was remove the base of the machine (remove screws circled in red in image below) so I could see up the pillar, it is incredible. The motor and all the necessary electrical parts to control the speed of the machine through the knee control are mounted in there. The motor is geared into the machine much higher up the arm and cannot be seen in the following photographs.

Finally I checked and oiled all the moving parts under the faceplate and cam door. The faceplate cannot be opened unless the foot is down. The machine is threaded by passing the thread down the back of the faceplate, through the tension, from back to front, and then through the take-up lever and then as usual.
Sewing
Whilst I was oiling this machine I noticed it had a hard spot, I thought maybe something wasn't oiled properly but despite oiling all the usual spots the noise persisted. When I actually plugged the machine in and ran it the noise increased with the speed (as was to be expected) and the machine clunked dreadfully. It wasn't until a couple of days later I found enough time to go and look at it again.
It came to my attention that the noise was not always in the same place in the machines rotation, this implied the motor was at fault. Eventually I disengaged the machine from the motor as for bobbin winding and the clunking continued, definitely the motor. With the base removed it became obvious that every time the machine clunked the entire motor was moving, which it definitely was not supposed to do. The problem was, how to see up the arm to see the gears? I did not have the appropriate circlip pliers to remove the handwheel and try and see in that way but eventually remember we had a camera for seeing in confined spaces. This worked and I can now say that to all intents and purposes it looks as if the gears up there are chipped and resulting in the machine not running smoothly. When I am finally finished for the year (another 4 weeks) I intend to go through the painstaking process of removing the motor and actually being able to personally see the extent of the damage. It is annoying to have such a beautiful machine, complete with accessories and be completely unable to use it!! At least I only have to pay $10 for it as it is completely unsaleable.....!